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Saint Ambrose and the celebrations in his memory
Saint Ambrose is the patron saint of Milan, and his legacy is deeply ingrained in the history and identity of the city. Saint Ambrose’s Day is celebrated on December 7 and is a public holiday in Milan, as is the Feast of the Immaculate Conception on December 8. In this article, we will take a look at the most important traditions and events related to the celebration of Saint Ambrose in Milan, which marks the beginning of the holiday season in the city.
You will learn about:
The history of Saint Ambrose and his importance in the spread of Christianity in Milan
Saint Ambrose, born in 339, is venerated as the patron saint of Milan. His path to sainthood was a remarkable one. In 373, while serving as governor of Liguria and Emilia, he was unexpectedly elected bishop of Milan during a dispute between Catholics and Arians. Although he was only a catechumen, he was quickly baptized and ordained a priest.
As a bishop, Ambrose became a staunch defender of the Catholic faith, opposing Arianism and strengthening the Church’s position in the Roman Empire. He also became famous for his courage, confronting Emperor Theodosius himself and forcing him to repent for the Thessalonica massacre.
But why exactly saint Ambrose is so revered in Milan? Today, few remember that the bishop who made such a big mark on the city was in fact a foreigner and that he became a bishop before he was baptized. Also to Saint Ambrose, Milan owes the Ambrosian rite in the liturgy of the Catholic Church, which is why Advent begins two weeks earlier there, and one notices several differences in the celebration of the Mass (for example, the passing of the sign of peace to each other comes before the preparation of the gifts). In Milan, Carnival also lasts a few days longer. In other parishes, Lent begins with Ash Wednesday, in the Lombardian capital it doesn’t begin until Sunday. Apparently, this is because St. Ambrose when returning from a pilgrimage made her wait as long as 4 days before starting Lent!
Ambrose died in 397, and his body rests in the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, which he built. For more information on the life and legacy of Saint Ambrose, see the article “Saint Ambrose – patron saint of the city.”
Traditions of the celebration of Saint Ambrose in Milan
The celebration of the Feast of St. Ambrose in Milan, December 7, is a time rich in traditions and events, both religious and secular in nature. On this day, among other things, events take place:
Other events surrounding the celebration of St. Ambrose Day in Milan
The feast of Saint Ambrose, the patron saint of Milan, celebrated on December 7, is not only a time for religious festivities, but also an opportunity to celebrate the city’s rich culture and traditions. In addition to the Mass at the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio and the presentation of the Ambrogino d’oro awards, other interesting events take place in Milan.
Fiera Obej! Obej!
Fiera Oh Bej, oh Bej – Milan’s biggest Christmas fair is about to begin! The name of the fair dates back to 1510, when Pope Pius IV’s envoy, Giannetto Castiglione, came to the city to reinforce the cult of the saints among the locals. Just happened to coincide with the anniversary of St. Ambrose’s episcopal ordination, so he brought with him many gifts and sweets, which he distributed to children as soon as they passed the city gates. In turn, these happy and delighted with the gifts shouted: “oh bej, oh bej,” which in the Milanese dialect means: “oh, how beautiful, oh, how beautiful”.
Location and duration: Traditionally, the fair was held near the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, but since 2006, it has been located in the square around the Sforzesco Castle, covering Piazza Castello, Viale Gadio, and Piazza del Cannone. In 2025, the fair will be held from December 5 to 8.
What can you find at the fair? At the Fiera Obej! Obej! you can find a wide range of products, from handicrafts, iron, copper and brass products, to books, toys, holiday decorations and regional delicacies such as roasted chestnuts and “Firunatt” (smoked chestnuts strung on string).
Inauguration of the season at Teatro alla Scala
Significance of the event for the world of culture and art: The opening of the season at the Teatro alla Scala on December 7 is one of the most important cultural events in Milan and Italy. La Scala is one of the most famous opera houses in the world, and the season premiere attracts crowds of Milanese residents, tourists, and personalities from the worlds of culture, politics, and business.
Presentation of Shostakovich’s opera Lady Macbeth of Mtsensk: In 2025, the season at Teatro alla Scala will open with Shostakovich’s opera Lady Macbeth of Mtsensk.
Tickets for the premiere are already sold out, but if you still want to go to the opera, check availability on La Scala’s official website.
“Prima Diffusa” – events throughout the city accompanying the premiere: The opening of the season is accompanied by the “Prima Diffusa” initiative, which organizes numerous cultural events throughout the city, including opera screenings, concerts, exhibitions, and meetings. “Prima diffusa” literally means “scattered premiere” and means that the atmosphere of the Premiere at La Scala is “scattered” across various locations in Milan thanks to free screenings, concerts, meetings, and lectures.
In 2025, the premiere of Lady Macbeth of Mtsensk will be broadcast live in over 30 locations in Milan. There is no exact list yet, so it is recommended to follow the official website of Teatro alla Scala. In previous years, screenings took place, among others, in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.
Artigiano in Fiera
International handicrafts and regional products fair: Artigiano in Fiera is a large international fair showcasing handicrafts and regional products from around the world.
Location and duration: Artigiano in Fiera takes place at Rho Fiera Milano, which can be reached by metro (red line). In 2025, the fair will run from December 6 to 14.
Christmas Market in Piazza Duomo
Wooden huts with Christmas and regional offerings: In Piazza Duomo, right next to the cathedral, the Christmas Market has been open since December 1, where you can find Christmas decorations, regional delicacies, and gifts in characteristic wooden huts. This market is a popular meeting place for locals and tourists who want to experience the festive atmosphere of Milan.
Summary
The long weekend with Saint Ambrose is the most important weekend before Christmas. Walking among the stalls with hot drinks and tasting traditional desserts (let’s add that panettone is already available these days), you can feel like a real Milanese for a while (the holiday has a tradition of more than 500 years).
I lived in Milan for 18 years, and it was there that I came to know the city’s daily life best - not just its landmarks, but also its rhythm, its habits, and its less obvious sides. Today I live in Wrocław, but I still return to Milan regularly.